Cigar humidor: cheap or luxury?
What really changes — capacity, cedar, humidity, finishes
Are you hesitating between an inexpensive humidor and a luxury one ? Good question: both can properly preserve your cigars… if you understand what truly makes the difference . In this guide, we break it down point by point: usable capacity , Spanish cedar , humidity stability (65–69% RH) , build quality , features (hygrometer, humidifier, dividers), warranty , and service . By the end, you'll know where to invest—and where to save—based on your actual needs .
Our collections:
- Cigar humidors : https://atelier-atypique.fr/collections/cave-a-cigares
- Humidifiers & hygrometers : https://atelier-atypique.fr/collections/humidificateur-hygrometre
- Cigar cases & boxes : https://atelier-atypique.fr/collections/etui-a-cigares
- Cigar ashtrays : https://atelier-atypique.fr/collections/cendrier-a-cigare-cohiba
1) Capacity: "advertised" vs. actual
- Advertised capacity (e.g., "20-30 cigars"): marketing value, often measured with very regular coronas .
- Usable capacity : depends on your actual modules ( robusto 50 , toro 52–54 , gordo 58–60 ) and separators .
- Cheap : compact boxes, sometimes just enough for high rings → you quickly reach the maximum .
- Luxury : better proportioned volumes, sliding shelves, modular storage .
To do : count your usual cigar sizes. If you mainly smoke robusto/toro , a "20-30" humidor can become a useful 15-20 . Allow for some growth (10-20% free capacity).
2) Spanish wood & cedar: the active "component"
The Spanish cedar is not decorative. It buffers humidity , lightly perfumes, deters certain pests, and stabilizes the microclimate.
- Cheap : thinner cedar, partial veneer, sometimes a substitute wood. It can work , but the hygrometric inertia is lower .
- Luxury : generous cedar lining, cedar tops, precise fitting → significantly better stability and gentler aging .
Tip : For an entry-level mixed wood wine cellar, adding cedar strips or leaves improves stability and reduces odor, at a low cost.
3) Waterproofing & hygrometric stability (65–69% RH)
The quality of the seal (lid, windows) and the rigidity of the box dictate the stability .
- Inexpensive : simple seals; there may be slight exchange with the air, requiring more humidification packs and monitoring .
- Luxury : well-sealed lids, sealed glass, hinges without play → stable microclimate, less "yo-yo".
Proper setting : aim for 65–69% RH with bi-directional regulator packs (add/remove humidity). 69% is a modern balance that prevents over-humidification while preserving combustion and aromas.
4) Hygrometer & humidifier: accuracy vs. appearance
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Hygrometer
- Basic : analog or simple digital. Calibrable via salt test (chamber ~75% RH).
- Premium : more stable digital, sometimes multi-point, remote probe, memory.
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Humidifier
- Original sponge/gels : functional but require maintenance .
- Regulator packs (65/69/72): cleanliness , stability , zero-monitoring or almost.
- Active reservoirs : reserved for large cabinets (electricity, ventilation).
To do : calibrate the hygrometer upon receipt (then every 6 months), standardize your packs (69% to start), distribute several small packs rather than one large one.
5) Finishes & hardware: where you "feel" the luxury
- Hinges : solid anchoring, flexible opening, almost no lateral play.
- Adjustment : lid that falls perfectly, alignment of the panes , sharp corners.
- Varnishes/veneers : regular thickness, resistance to micro-scratches, controlled colours (walnut, ebony, black lacquer…).
- Felt pads / pads: protect the furniture, limit vibrations .
Cheap : may look very good , but the details (hardware, varnish, alignments) betray the cost-cutting.
Luxury : the feeling of an object , mechanical smoothness, a clean surface over the years.
6) Internal organization: dividers, trays, drawers
- Separators : essential for sorting by blend/date and avoiding contact.
- Removable shelves : vertical air circulation, easy access to lower rows.
- Drawers : storage for accessories (cutter, lighter, packs).
- Tubes provided : bonus for occasional transport .
Cheap : few or no dividers, fixed trays → you stack and shuffle often.
Luxury : real modularity (sliding dividers, trays), time saving and fewer variations when opening.
7) Design: glazed vs. solid wood
- Glazed : visibility, visual appeal, quick RH check (if hygrometer on the front).
- Solid wood : more classic look, often better hygrometric inertia (less exchange through the glass).
- Cheap : simple glued panes of glass; pay attention to the sealing.
- Luxury : recessed glass, clean seals, sometimes anti-UV treatments .
Choose according to your room (light, dust, direct heat). Avoid direct sunlight .
8) Warranty, service & parts
- Cheap or Luxury : Our guarantee and after-sales service will be the same, with the same priority on customer satisfaction at the heart of our policy.
- Value over time : a well-maintained luxury wine cellar ages very well and retains value on the second-hand market.
9) Budget: where to invest, where to save
Invest in:
- Waterproofing & cedar (microclimate stability)
- Calibrable digital hygrometer
- Regulator packs (69%)
- Organization (dividers/trays)
Save on:
- Ultra-mirror finish if you handle a lot
- Accessory drawers if you already have a travel case
- Decorations that are too delicate (polished metals, very glossy lacquers)
10) Buyer profiles & quick recommendations
A) Demanding beginner (tight budget)
- Cellar 20–30 sober, cedar present (even thin).
- Packs 69% (2 × 60 g) + calibrated digital hygrometer .
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Additional separators if not supplied.
→ The quality/price duo that works.
B) Established amateur (growing collection)
- Wine cellar 40–60 with removable tray + sliding dividers.
- Generous cedar, proper joints, glazed or solid wood facade depending on the room.
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Professional digital hygrometer, distributed packs.
→ Less opening, greater stability .
C) Aesthetic / decorative object (living room)
- Wine cellar with fine wood/luxury veneer, recessed glass, high-end hinges.
- Accessory drawer , hygrometer front panel .
- Additional cedar strips for scent.
→ Pleasure of use + staging .
D) Large sharer / high turnover
- Large capacity (80–100) or compact cabinet.
- Multiple packs, multi-point hygrometer.
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Strict organization by zones (purchase date, terroir, strength).
→ Consistency across openings.
11) Shopping checklist
- Useful capacity vs your formats (robusto/toro/gordo).
- Spanish cedar (lining/tops) and thickness .
- Watertightness (lid, glass, hinge play).
- Calibrable digital hygrometer + 69% packs (distributed).
- Are removable dividers / trays useful?
- Location in the room (no direct sunlight, 18–21 °C).
- Warranty/After-sales service and parts (seals/hinges).
- Style (solid wood vs. glass) in keeping with your decor.
- Budget : focus on stability and organization .
12) Common errors (and corrections)
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Taking too small a capacity → cellar fills up quickly, microclimate fluctuates .
Correction : +20% margin, trays for ventilation. -
Neglecting calibration → false readings, incorrect settings.
Correction : salt test or 75% kit every 6 months. -
A single large pack in the center → heterogeneous regulation.
Correction : several packs distributed . -
Exposure to heat/sun → over-humidification, altered odors.
Correction : 18–21 °C, away from hot sources. -
No separators → you "stir" the cigars with each puff.
Correction : Add dividers / trays .
FAQ
What is the real difference between a cheap wine cellar and a luxury wine cellar?
Stability (cedar, airtightness), the quality of the hinges and finish, organization (dividers/shelves), and after-sales service are all important factors . An inexpensive wine cellar can be suitable if you compensate with good storage packages and a simple routine.
Is a glass-fronted cellar better than a solid wood one?
A glass door enhances the visual appeal and allows for a quick glance. Solid wood often offers better thermal mass . Choose according to your room (sunlight, heat) and your lifestyle.
What humidity level should I aim for?
A modern setting between 65–69% RH works very well for most premium cigars. Spread them out over several packs rather than just one.
Do I absolutely need Spanish cedar?
Yes, for stability , odor control, and thermal inertia. For an entry-level wine cellar, add cedar strips to improve the microclimate.
How to choose the right capacity?
Start with your actual sizes (robusto/toro/gordo) and add a 10–20% margin. A "20–30" size easily becomes a useful 15–20 depending on your rings.
